The watch world is a fascinating and ever-evolving landscape, and this week's news is a testament to that. From MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery to the first-ever Rolex Daytona Rainbow, there's a lot to unpack and discuss. But one topic that has me particularly intrigued is the term 'microbrand' and whether it's time for the watch industry to rethink it. Let me explain.
In my opinion, the term 'microbrand' has become a bit of a misnomer. It's easy to associate it with small, independent watch companies that are making waves in the industry. But what many people don't realize is that the term has evolved over time. A decade ago, 'microbrand' implied something fresh and exciting, a small team taking creative risks without the baggage of decades of heritage or sprawling corporate structures. Brands like Studio Underd0g, Baltic, and Christopher Ward embraced this idea, and it seemed to work for them.
However, the market has changed. Today, the term 'microbrand' has become associated with both the good and the bad. For every genuinely thoughtful independent producing something original, there are dozens assembling catalogue parts with little to distinguish themselves beyond a logo and a colourful dial. This has led to a situation where many successful smaller brands feel they've outgrown the label, and some even prefer to be called 'small independent' or 'indie'.
From my perspective, the answer isn't to abandon the word altogether. If collectors still hear 'microbrand' and think of passionate people making interesting watches outside the industry's biggest players, maybe the term isn't hurting brands at all. Maybe it's simply become too broad to be genuinely helpful. It's an interesting discussion, and I have a feeling it won't be the last time the watch industry finds itself debating what a microbrand actually is.
Speaking of interesting discussions, MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery is a fascinating concept. By championing the intersection of horology, engineering, and kinetic art, they've created a platform that sits comfortably outside the traditional gallery world. The Solar Orbiter, a kinetic watch winder by Martin Smith, is a perfect example of this. It's a mesmerizing creation that quietly rotates a watch while incorporating playful references to Smith's earlier works. It's a refreshing reminder that not every horological talking point needs to be a new watch.
On a different note, Shinola's first-ever brand campaign, 'Set the Pace', is an interesting move. Directed by and starring Nicholas Braun, it explores our complicated relationship with time. The short film, 'The Restaurant', is a cinematic masterpiece where the ticking of a Runwell watch transforms an ordinary dinner into a race against time. It's a clever way to showcase the brand's identity without focusing on specifications or heritage.
Finally, the first new-reference Rolex Daytona Rainbow going under the hammer in Australia is a significant event. With a retail price of US$324,700 and a secondary market bidding already at A$395,000, it's a sale that will provide the first real indication of how collectors value Rolex's latest Rainbow Daytona in the open market. It's a fascinating development in the world of luxury watches.
In conclusion, this week's news is a reminder of the dynamic nature of the watch industry. From the evolution of the 'microbrand' term to the mesmerizing creations of MB&F and the significant auction of the Rolex Daytona Rainbow, there's always something new and exciting to explore. As an industry, we continue to push boundaries, innovate, and captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.
